| dc.contributor.author | Henderson, Stephen Mark. | en_US |
| dc.date.accessioned | 2014-10-21T12:37:13Z | |
| dc.date.available | 2002 | |
| dc.date.issued | 2002 | en_US |
| dc.identifier.other | AAINQ67662 | en_US |
| dc.identifier.uri | http://hdl.handle.net/10222/55838 | |
| dc.description | Estimates of the cross-shore surf beat energy flux were substituted into an energy equation to determine the rate of net surf beat forcing (or dissipation) on a beach near Duck, North Carolina. Inside the surf zone, surf beat dissipation exceeded forcing. Outside the surf zone, surf beat forcing exceeded dissipation. During storms, the net shoreward surf beat energy flux in the outer surf zone was about half the energy flux that could be carried if all surf beat propagated directly shorewards. The associated dissipation of surf beat in the surf zone was very strong (the total surf beat energy dissipated in the surf zone in a single beat period sometimes exceeded the total surf beat energy stored there). At relatively low beat frequencies (0.005--0.025 Hz), the dominant Empirical Orthogonal Functions (EOF's) of measured pressure and velocity in 1--5 m depth had the nodal structure expected of cross-shore standing waves. At higher beat frequencies (0.03--0.05 Hz), dominant EOF's had some nodal structure, but their phase increased steadily with distance from the shore, indicating net shoreward propagation. | en_US |
| dc.description | Forced, dissipative, shore-oblique shallow water waves were modeled. Forcing applied shoreward of the edge wave turning point generates edge waves, whereas forcing applied sufficiently far seaward of the turning point generates evanescent waves. Weakly-dissipative edge waves are nearly cross-shore standing, whereas strongly-dissipative edge waves progress obliquely across-shore, carrying energy from regions of forcing to regions of dissipation. Evanescent waves decay almost exponentially with distance from regions of forcing. Bound evanescent waves propagate shorewards and depress the sea level under groups of large incident waves. However, unlike the bound waves described by previous researchers, evanescent bound waves are not released when short waves break, and do not radiate energy away from the breakpoint. | en_US |
| dc.description | Thesis (Ph.D.)--Dalhousie University (Canada), 2002. | en_US |
| dc.language | eng | en_US |
| dc.publisher | Dalhousie University | en_US |
| dc.publisher | | en_US |
| dc.subject | Physical Oceanography. | en_US |
| dc.title | Surf beat forcing and dissipation. | en_US |
| dc.type | text | en_US |
| dc.contributor.degree | Ph.D. | en_US |
